New basing and weathering series

Posted by Ron


Image from Games Workshop

I'm happy to announce that a new basing and weathering series will be coming to FTW with the new year.
Written by fellow FTW Blogger Group member misterjustin, who also heads up Secret Weapon Miniatures, he'll be taking a look at basing models from the simple to the complex and everything in between. He loves basing models and I agree, there is nothing else that you can do to your models that addds more to them than basing. And on top of that, he'll be covering a wide range of weathering techniques as well.

Want to know how to make your guys look like their fighting in a specific environment or make your vehicles look battle hardened? Keep your eyes out for the upcoming series.

It's looking like it's going to be a monthly feature where he takes us step by step through one of the many tips and tricks he has for making your models look like they're more than just toy soldiers.

- Ron

Power armoured "old school" Librarian done

Posted by Ron


(Click on image for larger version)

And here's the finished model.
I'm just doing the construction, this guy will most likely be shipped off to be painted by a pro.

This turned out to be one of my favorite builds to date. I think he's got a great look and he's a custom build for a Salamander force. from the backpack to the small icon on his greave, everything fits and he's a good balance of clean areas and detail I think.
If I wasn't playing Deathing, I would have ordered the bits over and built one of these for my force.

Librarians are just cool models.

- Ron

My Project Link: Old School Librarian

Barter Bucket: Saturday December 26th, 2009

Posted by Mik

Barter Buck continues to make his rounds! His busiest haul is over with, but he still needs your help! Check out the latest list below and see if you have some of these bits laying around to help someone out with. Contact them and see if you can work something out. There's also some choice bits in the surplus department as well. Remember, it takes us all pitching in to make this work. FTW's very own Ron is doing his part, what can you do?

Remember, please let us know what you need, and we'll promptly list them.
Thanks! - Mik

To contact an individual about a listing, simply copy and paste their email address below and drop them a line. The rest will be up to those who need parts and those who have them!

This Week's Needs:

misterjustin@gmail.com
+ Attilan roughriders, unpainted preferred (x10)

miksminis@gmail.com
+ Tau Hammerhead railgun (x1)


This Week's Surplus:

redhands5of10@live.com
(all items are in the box unpainted and unassembled)
+ Ultra marines Marneus Calgar w/Honor guard $10.00 plus shipping
+ Black Templars Chapter Upgrade $10.00 plus shipping
+ SM scouts w/ Sniper rifles $10.00 plus shipping
+ SM Scouts $10.00 plus shipping
+ SM attack bike $5.00 plus shipping
+ SM bikes(qty 4) $15.00 plus shipping
+ SM predator $15.00 plus shipping

Rogue Trader Friday: Christmas Marines

Posted by Bryan


(Click for larger image)


Ok, so not really Rogue Trader artwork, but we still need some Christmas (or Festivus) spirit in here.

Happy Holidays!

As a complement to Rogue Trader Fridays here at From the Warp, I have some Rogue Trader modeling going on over at my blog, Imperial Painting Table. This week, a special Christmas Surprise!.

- Bryan

Modifying Space Marine arm positions

Posted by Ron


I do this all the time and I figured I would do a little step by step to show just how easy it is to "change" the position of space marine arms.
With some modification to the steps, you could do this for any model actually.


The first step is too figure out the angle you want the arm to be positioned at. The arm as is, would be at the angle "A" but I want it to be a little more open and away from the body so I cut my own angle "B" to use when I glue the arm to the torso.
I only cut away what I have to. Too much and the arm will look odd because you are cutting away at the shoulder joint.


Next is to dry fit your arm to test the angle and then glue it in place once you have what you want. You can see the new angle leaves quite a gap on the front of the model at the shoulder joint.



Time to fill the joint. Taking a bit of greenstuff, I start working at the top of the shoulder and move down to the bottom. I try and leave a little "lip" along the edges to help define the difference between the flex fitting and the armour plates.
I use my X-Acto for this since it has a tiny point and I can get it up into the very top of the shoulder joint. As you work towards the bottom, you inevitably end up with excess that you can cut away.
Make sure you get it super smooth at this point, any surface imperfections will be seen in the end and make the texture you add in the next step look "wrong" if you don't smooth it out to begin with.


Time to add the texture. Using my X-Acto blade again because I can cut a fine indentation, I go back and add a series of parallel "folds" in the joint.
This should mimic the joint material visible in the other joints.
Make sure to make the folds in this joint the same width as the other joints in order to keep the illusion convincing. Make them too big and they look wrong. Make them the same size as his other arm and people won't even notice you made the change.

- Ron

My Project Link: Old School Librarian